Oud-West Amsterdam: What to See, Eat and Do

Like De Pijp, Oud-West was built as dense worker housing in the late 1800s and had a rougher reputation for much of the 20th century. Renovation and a wave of new food and retail businesses since the 2010s have changed that considerably, though it still feels more residential and less polished than the areas right around the canal ring; see our Amsterdam neighbourhoods guide for how it compares.

The area is large enough that it helps to think of it in three parts: the Foodhallen and De Hallen complex, the Kinkerstraat and Ten Kate market streets, and the quieter stretch along the Vondelpark and Overtoom.

Foodhallen and De Hallen

De Hallen is a converted 20th-century tram depot that now houses a cinema, a library, shops and, most famously, Foodhallen, an indoor food hall with stalls covering a wide range of cuisines under one roof. It works well for groups with different tastes, since everyone can choose separately and share a table. Expect it to be busy on weekend evenings, and be aware it operates on a mix of ordering counters rather than table service.

Ten Katemarkt

A few streets away, Ten Katemarkt is a daytime street market that feels distinctly more local and less curated than Albert Cuypmarkt in De Pijp, with fresh produce, fabric, household goods and a growing number of food stalls. It runs on a weekly schedule rather than daily, so it is worth checking current market days before planning a visit around it.

Kinkerstraat and Jan Pieter Heijestraat

Kinkerstraat is the neighbourhood's long, practical shopping street: cheaper clothing shops, bakeries, phone repair shops and everyday services rather than boutiques, giving a more accurate sense of ordinary Amsterdam life than the centre does. Jan Pieter Heijestraat, running roughly parallel, has developed a denser strip of independent cafés, bars and restaurants and is a good option for an evening out without leaving the neighbourhood.

• Kinkerstraat: everyday shopping, bakeries, some markets.
• Jan Pieter Heijestraat: bars, restaurants, a younger evening crowd.
• Ten Katestraat: the market plus a growing number of specialty food shops.

The Vondelpark edge and Overtoom

Oud-West's eastern edge runs along the Vondelpark, giving residents and visitors easy access to Amsterdam's largest and best-known city park for a run, a picnic or simply cutting through towards the Museum Quarter. Overtoom, the wide street bordering the park, mixes restaurants, a cinema and some larger shops, and functions as a useful, slightly less crowded route between Leidseplein and Oud-West proper.

Staying in Oud-West

Oud-West works well as a base for visitors who want to eat and drink like a resident rather than a tourist, and who do not mind a 20 to 25 minute walk or a short tram ride to Centraal Station and the main canal ring. It tends to be somewhat better value for accommodation than the centre or the Museum Quarter itself, though prices vary with season; compare it against other areas in our where to stay guide.

Tram access

Several GVB tram lines run through Oud-West connecting it to Leidseplein, Centraal Station and the Museum Quarter, generally taking 10 to 15 minutes into the centre. It is also an easy area to explore on foot or by bike once you are there; see our tram guide for specific lines and our cycling guide if you plan to rent a bike.

Oud-West is where a lot of Amsterdam actually eats dinner, which is a fair reason to eat there too.

Evening scene and who it suits

In the evening, Jan Pieter Heijestraat and the streets around Foodhallen carry most of the energy, with a mix of casual bars, small restaurants and the occasional late-opening café; it is a low-key scene rather than a nightlife destination, with nothing resembling the clubs of Rembrandtplein or Leidseplein. This suits couples, food-focused travellers and anyone doing a repeat visit to Amsterdam who wants a more local pace, similar in spirit to the appeal described in our Amsterdam for couples guide. It is less suited to visitors chasing canal-ring postcard views or a lively bar-hopping night out.